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Sunday, July 26, 2015

Victorian Menswear

This should be the last catch-up post. I didn't state early, mid, or late Victorian because menswear has often changed much more slowly than ladies' wear--at least for the last two centuries or so--so Jon and I tend to cheat even more with his clothing than we do with mine. I use some of my clothing to portray two decades or so, dressing it up differently to change the style, but we use some of Jon's clothing to span the entire Victorian period (64 years).

I made this Inverness for Jon over a year ago. I didn't use a proper pattern. I just modified (rather drastically) the pattern I drew up for one of Jon's medieval surcotes, adding a collar and circular cape as well as changing the general shape of the body. I actually wish I had drafted the pattern more carefully, but we were being Victorian Christmas carolers in Utah, so Jon really needed it for warmth. That created a greater rush.

The outer layer is just a black twill, but we lined it with Welsh wool that we inherited from Jon's grandmother. There is one layer of it in the main body of the Inverness and two layers in the cape. An Inverness does not actually have sleeves, so the cape provides the warmth to the arms. The black sleeves you see are the jacket underneath--in this case, a tailcoat. The lining doesn't lay perfectly, but overall, I'm rather pleased with it, especially for such a rush job.

This is Jon with the Inverness removed, just so you can see the overall evening outfit. This is what he typically wears for dancing.

I made this double-breasted waistcoat for Jon for evening wear by just modifying a regular vest pattern. The pockets are all real, even though the pattern just had false plackets. I used a fabric-covered button kit to make the buttons and an embroidered satin that I already had on hand.

I had to take the back in to get the fit right. I had already completed it with the fit a little loose, but I opened up the lining and took it in.

The pocket watch is neither of our work, but I think it's beautiful, and I wanted to give mention to the Etsy shop I bought it from: Art Inspired Gifts. It's a beautiful watch, and we expected it to be just your standard watch with a battery, but it winds up. That's not what everyone would want, but we both liked that better.
This is Jon's daytime waistcoat. It's single-breasted, and also made with fabric I already had on hand and fabric-covered buttons. This was a home decor fabric, which was a bit thick for making fabric-covered buttons, so some of them required glue. This one also has real pockets because false plackets are stupid.

Isn't he handsome?

This vest also had to be taken in at the back after completion.

The trousers with this day outfit are the Ludlow Trousers from Gentleman's Emporium. I don't remember if we payed the normal price, or if we caught a sale, but they were worth it either way. They come with a 36" inseam, so we had to hem them up--that was to be expected--but the fit of the seat was a bit loose too, so we have taken that in as well.

The next months will be consumed with Halloween sewing. I'm pretty excited about the costumes I have planned for that. Stay tuned for more.

1 comment:

  1. "False pockets are stupid." LOL! Those vests are gorgeous!! I love it all, though. You're so talented.