One of the early things I had to do was fill in that hole in the back. I removed all of the pearls that lined that hole, and I also picked a lot of the lace and pearls off of the sleeves because I knew I was cutting them off below the elbow and because I wanted to tone down the decoration a bit (not a lot, though, as will become obvious). I used some of the fabric from the shortened train to fill in the hole and hand-stitched the pieces to each side. Then I picked pieces of lace that had been removed from the sleeves that could cover the newly-added fabric without needing to overlap each other too much. After hand-stitching those down, I added pearls and sequins to roughly match the existing beadwork pattern. The only step left was to make the top of the bodice close. Two zippers wasn't practical, and I didn't really want to take out the old one and put in a full-length one because it was going to be a bit difficult to make it fit correctly. So I chose a row of pearl buttons and button-loops. The addition hides pretty well.
I couldn't find button loops locally, and I have to admit that by the time I decided I was doing this, I didn't have time to order them online, so I made my own. I embroidered a row of chain stitches into the left side of the back, then crocheted into that. I had to redo the loops a couple of times because if they're just a tiny bit too loose, they slip right off the buttons, but of course, if they are too tight, they won't go on at all.
I also used some of the spare fabric to fill in the open space in the shoulders--the dress was originally held up only by elastic straps. I pinned the fabric in with the dress on the dummy before removing the straps. Then I removed the straps and hand-sewed in the new fabric.
Next, began to add layers to the skirt. I apologize for not taking in-progress photos of that process. I began with a champagne colored satin. I cut two lengths of it to match the maximum length of the train, two for the sides, and one for the front (the original skirt has five panels). I sewed all of these panels together, using no seam finish because I left the selvedges on. Then I gathered the top and pinned it to the dress, adjusting it until I liked the way it hung. Then I trimmed the bottom until the train matched the original train with only a little of the lace trim showing, and curved the front upward. I confess, I did not take it back off the dress to ensure it was perfectly symmetrical.
When I was satisfied with the shape, I stitched the top of the skirt down on the outside of the dress because I didn't really want to detach and reattach the skirt and because the dress made it fairly simple to hide the upper edges of the new skirt layers. The lace that decorates the bodice is not tacked down at the bottom, so it could hide the upper skirt edges around the front and sides. The back would later be hidden by a bow that was one of the design elements that Jasmine particularly liked from the inspiration dress. I used Fray Check to protect the upper edges of this layer.
I finished the lower edge by singeing it to give it a lighter weight appearance than could be achieved with a traditional hem. It also gave it a distressed look that worked with the feel we were trying to achieve. (If you click on the photo below to enlarge it, you can see the singed edge a bit.)
The next two layers were of chiffon, first bronze, then grey. I washed both, then twisted them tightly and let them dry that way to give them a crinkled appearance. The bronze took the crinkles better than did the grey, but a variety of textures was desirable. I created the shapes of these layers much the same way I did the satin layer, although the bronze only goes around the front and sides because I had less of it and it wouldn't be seen in the back. These two layers have french seams because they look best on chiffon. I zigzagged the upper edges rather than using Fray Check, but I singed the bottom edges of the chiffon layers just as I had the satin.
|This shows the bronze chiffon as well as the upper edges hiding under the edge of the lace in front.|
|the layers of the skirt|
I've already mentioned my plan to add a scarf to the neckline. I made the scarf in a tube, with a single french seam. I intended for the ends of it to hang straight down from the shoulders, but I didn't have enough of it to make it out of one long piece. Seams were required to make the scarf long enough, so we decided to pin it in the center to hide the seams. Other than at center back, the scarf is stitched to the dress.
After cutting the sleeves just above Jasmine's elbow, I zigzagged the edges to keep them from fraying. Luckily for me, ironing them eliminated the stitching holes left by removing lace, so I didn't have to re-cover those areas. I cut ruffles for the sleeves out of the Chantilly lace. The ruffles are wider toward the back of the arm, narrower toward the front.
The final thing to do was to create a way to bustle the train so that the bride could walk and dance more easily. Let's face it, trains are really only good for pictures. They get in the way the rest of the time. So I made three little tabs with buttonholes in them out of the champagne-colored satin (to hopefully make them easier to find than if they matched the rest of the inside of the dress). I stitched them through all layers of the skirt using grey thread because it would be least visible on the outside. The stitches are vertical, also to blend better. Then I sewed green buttons very close to the waistline on the sides and just below the zipper in the center. They are sewn only through the bottom two layers because the button stitches would not hide on the outside of the dress.
Now for views of the finished product.
And I bet you'd like to see it on the beautiful bride. I hope to get permission to post some of the professional photos, but for now, here are some of mine.
She was beautiful and happy, so I think I can officially call this project a success!