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Wednesday, August 31, 2011

I Made You Say Underwear!

This past week, I've been hard at work on adorable fairy dresses, but I don't have pictures of those yet. But I will say that I have pretty, sparkly tulle skirts in the works as well as taffeta bodices with a velvet design on them. The underdresses are lovely white cotton voile. I may not post pictures until they're on the girls, though.

I have also done most of the work on a petticoat for my Civil War gown. I made it of not entirely matching white fabrics from my stash, and I may have to add some length once I actually make my cage crinoline to go under it, but I'm quite happy with it. It's nice and fluffy, so it should do its job nicely, which is to keep the boning of the cage crinoline from showing through the skirt.

Even though it's realistically underwear and won't really be seen, I want to add lace to the hem.

I have also begun my Spanish farthingale using Marguerite's class handout based on Alcega's pattern. I had to alter the instructions somewhat because the 22 inch fabric widths didn't suit the size of my waist.

I did the math to figure out the width for the panels and cut the front and back rectangles out of that. But I figured out that the hem width was going to end up rather narrow, so I drew wider panels to cut out the gores. Since I didn't have fabric woven to the exact right width, I added seam allowances to all of my pieces.

I did not cut the corners off the top of the front panel until after pinning the pieces together because that seemed like the easiest way to get the angles right. I also didn't round off them hem yet for the same reason. I may have to let some of the seams out because my math did not take into account the loss of width at the top of the front panel, so it's a little tight around my hips at the moment. Or it may force me to add in some fabric. I could just redo the whole thing, but I don't really want to. Replacing just the rectangular panels may be the answer.

One seam is still open because I need to sew on boning channels and may do that while the skirt is still flat. Although I'm considering having the boning spiral up the farthingale instead of having completely separate rings, and if I do that, I will have to close the last seam before putting in the one long casing. I probably won't decide which style of casing to put on until I decide what type of boning to use, and I have not determined that yet. I need to figure out what will best give me what I want, but that is difficult to test when I cannot simply buy all the possible materials and try them. If I keep it more historically accurate, I'm leaning toward rope because I'm not keen on dealing with storing a cane/reed-stiffened farthingale, but I'm not sure if rope will give me quite the fullness I'm hoping for. The completely non-historical option in the running is nylon-coated steel cable. But for all I know at this point, I may end up using something else entirely.

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